Restaurant Review: Saltoro

Saltoro

14051 Greenwood Ave N, Seattle WA 98133

(206) 365-6025

‘Saltoro’ as far as I can tell, is a mountain range in the mists of the Himalayas of the Indian subcontinent. This may or may not be related to the origin story of this Broadview ristorante, it does not say. 

From the outside, it’s an unassuming building in an understated suburb, which could be easily missed but for the giant, yellow-neon sign, with the bobbing ‘O’s (Salt8r8). 

The inside is stylish, with warm accents and dark lighting. At a glance, it has a heavily Italianate influence with Northwest contemporary, and streaks of cosmopolitan styling, a true fusion cuisine. 

It professes fresh, locally-sourced, sustainable ingredients and produce. It demands your attention, with unusual and exotic touches, such as truffles, amaretti, pangrattato, fontina, arugula, prosciutto, fennel, chipotle, nicoise, gruyere, harissa, gouda, faro, sumac, gremolata, Shiitake, jicama. 

It is artisanal, and wants you to know it, with pizzettas, spaghettini, broccolini, which as far as I can tell are cuter versions of pizza, spaghetti and broccoli. You can have meat substitutes, gluten-free, vegan, but don’t expect cheddar and pepperoni here. 

You do have pasta, such as ravioli, garganelli, linguine, pappardelle, spaghettini, penne, paired with butternut squash, smoked salmon, prawns, veal, mushrooms, prosciutto, seasonal veg, marinara (not your usual red/white/green sauces). 

The pizzettas are of course gourmet with fennel, ricotta, fontina, basil, chile, wild mushroom, truffles, chutney (sorry, not Hawaiian). 

In the category of House Specials would be short rib, sea-salt roasted half chicken (a local favorite), Ahi tuna salad, Kobe beef burger, steak frites, lamb burger, fish & chips, Alaskan halibut, braised farro, sautéed salad (probably with generous lashings of truffle oil, upon request). 

Did I mention the truffle fries? And ask about the rotating specials such as barracuda, swordfish, Portuguese seafood stew (not cioppino). 

Desserts involve chocolate, Grand Marnier, apple-cranberry crisp, ice-cream, sorbet, flan, to go with a nightcap of port, cognac or wine. 

Which means there is a good bartender to keep track of the many cocktails and wines they also have on offer. 

You have a plethora of options on your plate, so be bold, be brave, stray from the ordinary to experience the enigma.

--TCA